Some tips I found useful: When you’re making the foundation chain, don’t omit the stitch marker at the beginning. It’s very, very useful. Work on a flat surface – it’s a lot easier to see when there’s a twist and to tell up from down
Here are the joining directions in my words: When chain’s the right length, lay it flat, then bring the beginning together with the end that’s on the hook without twisting – the marked stitch is at the bottom (closer to you) and the hook is at the top (further from you) Put one twist in it by bringing the marked stitch up to the hook and work a slip stitch in the marked stitch
Now the top of the foundation is connected, but the bottom is still split. So let’s join that together: Rotate your work on the table 180 degrees, so the marked stitch and the hook are at the bottom and the split ends are at the top.
Work 3 slip sts in the chain above the marked stitch Slip stitch into the base of the last FDC Now you’re ready to go!
Pattern is laid out with the notes and special stitches on the first page, so you have to go to the second page to know exactly how much to chain.
Foundation double crochet! Not as hard as you think it is
– Directions are very clear as to exactly where to put your hook (through the face of the chain and under the nub) Sounds weird, but makes a lot of sense when you’re looking at your chain
– I found an Addi hook to be the most useful, nearly a necessity: the head is pointy and narrow and fits into the chain easier than other hooks.
– Doing the foundation double crochet exactly as directed makes a very clean edge and the resulting chain is really flexible and stretchy
Gauge is given in Foundation Double Crochets, which is very handy. You can check your gauge as you’re starting your project!
Guest: Beth Casey of Lorna’s Laces chats with Kathy about the newest yarn from Lorna’s Laces – Solemate. This is a sockweight yarn that’s a blend of superwash merino, nylon, and Outlast. Outlast is a technological fiber that helps regulate your temperature – cools when it’s too hot and warms when it’s too cool. The yarn has a very high twist, similar to the Shepherd Sock because it’s such a well-wearing, popular yarn. There is some springiness in the new yarn, but it is a little bit smoother because of the content. Beth also talks about the newest colors named after iconic Chicago landmarks.
We’re live from our Tent Sale this week!
This year, we have deals on bagged yarns, but also some great Grab Bags from Berroco, Tahki, and Plymouth. These are only available during the Tent Sale at the store, so if you can make it down, you’ll want to check out these great yarns!
Spinning supplies and Blue Moon Fiber Arts are 20% off this weekend only! (In-store only!)
Keep in mind that if you’re here, there will be lines. They will move, but there will be waits.
Josephine KAL with Kirsten
With the Josephine Cardigan, you can easily modify the sleeve length. It is possible to make the body longer as well, you’ll have to make the center back cable longer.
To adjust the body width, knit a few more rows on the width of the body after you pick up.
If you’re not sure what size to make, take a sweater from home you love, and compare the measurements of that one to the schematic of your project.
Send us a picture of your finished project! email@example.com
Fleece Market – The first Fleece Market was at 109 Main Street in Amherst in the parking lot in the back.
Guest: Vicki Stiefel, co-author of 10 Secrets of the Laidback Knitter. She wrote this book with Lisa Souza and the whole premise is to help knitters experience more joy from their knitting. The authors wanted this book to be inclusive to everyone. Make sure you check it out!
Last show we talked about making the center back cable panel, and now that that’s done, we’re ready to pick up stitches!
Now, technically, the cable could be oriented either with the cast on edge at the neck or at the bottom hem. But I put it at the top neck so it’ll look more like the cables you’re about to do from the shoulders down. This is why you’re doing the right half of the body even though it says you’re picking up on the left edge of the cable panel. By “left edge” I mean the edge that’s at the end of a RS row. After working your last row, your yarn and needles should be poised to start working here, anyway.
When I’m picking up stitches in a bulky yarn like this, I like to go into the edge stitch instead of beyond it so you don’t have a thick seam on the WS. But you can do it whichever way you’re most comfortable. You have to pick up 50 sts in 86 rows here, which is somewhere close to 3 sts for every 4 rows, not exact, but you don’t want to have to cram sts in at the very ends, and I find that the cables can compact the rows a little more than Stockinette.
So, to pick up stitches, hold the cable panel firmly in your left hand, and with your right-hand needle, go into the selvedge stitch, from front to back, wrap your yarn like for a normal knit stitch, and draw the loop through the fabric. You’re essentially treating the edge of your cable panel like it’s a row of stitches on a needle. And if you’re still having trouble, definitely google it, there are lots of videos for you to be able to see it.
Once you’re done picking up those 50 sts, you’re going to cast on 44. How do you do that? Well, there are a few different methods you can use here, but the important thing is to use a cast on that only uses one strand of yarn, not 2 like the long-tail method. I recommend using the backwards loop cast on here, sometimes called an “e wrap” because it looks like a lower case letter ‘e’. I recommend it because it’s easy, it’s somewhat stable, it’s easy to pick up from, which you’ll be doing later, and if you look closely at your long-tail cast on, you’ll see that it’s actually the same as a backwards loop cast on with one row of knitting already built into it. So there’s some symmetry if you use it here.
Art & Barbara purchased a large mill end lot of 1300 YPP Rayon Chenille. They then had it dyed and it became one of the first of the WEBS yarns. It was the first time they had repeatable colorways. They were also able to take advantage of mills in the US, which unfortunately, don’t exist anymore.
Barbara & Art used to drive around looking for mills and finding them by looking for water towers. Art made lots of contacts, and now that everything is more precise with computers, mill ends don’t really exist.
Next week – What happens when Art retires his “regular” job.
Also next week, we’ll be LIVE at our Tent Sale, so local customers can catch us on WHMP. The podcast version will go up later than usual.
Alright, so we’ve got our Northampton Bulky, we’ve swatched and we’ve found the needle size we need in order to get 3 sts to the inch in St st.
Now it’s time to cast on that center back cable panel. Long tail cast on is recommended here because it gives a nice sturdy edge that’s easy to work with. Since you’re at the back neck here, the ribbing will eventually be picked up from the bottom of this cast on edge, which long-tail cast on can handle well if it’s made somewhat loosely. If you love provisional cast-on methods, you can do it here, but keep in mind that you’ll be working some cables as early as Row 2, so you might want to use a method that will give you a row or two of waste knitting to work with, otherwise the cables can distort the cast on edge and make it hard to see which stitches come first.
To work the cable, you’ll have to do a little bit of page flipping at first. The cable panel itself is only 24 sts wide, but you’re casting on 26. That’s because you have a one stitch at the left and right edges worked in garter stitch, which are the edges you’ll be picking up the left and right backs from later. But the other cables at the shoulders don’t need those selvedge edges, which is why they’re not in the chart. So, I show you how Rows 1 and 2 are worked to establish that it’s garter stitch, and you can take it from there, repeating Rows 1-24 of the cable chart, or the written cable directions, your pick, tacking on a little “k1″ at the beg and end of each row.
Just a note about the cable abbreviations: I had to do a bit of translation between the chart’s legend and the abbreviations used in the written pattern. The reason is because my charting software has kind of long, clunky names for cables (probably because it has to have a unique name for so many of them) and they don’t fit very well into written directions and they can be a little hard to read. But since we’re only working with a couple different cables here in this pattern, we can give them more readable, general abbreviations in the written directions. So at the top of page 2, I list what abbreviation means what.
So, we’ll be repeating these 24 rows a total of 3 times, using some of the cable techniques we talked about earlier. And if you’re new to cable charts, not sure if you get them yet, I recommend working from the written version, then comparing each row you’ve worked to the chart, to get a better sense of how it works.
Next show we’ll be talking about picking up the stitches for the sides of the cardigan, casting on in the middle of a project, and just how those sleeves come to be. So get cabling and happy knitting!
Guest: Julia, owner of Knit New Haven, which is part of the I-91 Shop Hop that’s coming up June 24-26. Julia describes her lovely shop in New Haven, CT. The shop has been open for about a year and a half. It is located downtown within walking distance of Yale. If you can, make sure you make the time to stop by this shop!
WEBS moved to 109 Main St. in Amherst. The store was in the basement and the entrance was in the back. Our Fleece Market actually started in the parking lot of this location. It was half and half knitting and weaving yarn. Barbara always talks about how this was a small shop and she had to balance purchasing and the money coming in.
The mail order venture started at this time as well. Art would go out and negotiate for mill ends and samples of the yarns would be cut and mailed all over.
Next Week: The History of WEBS continues, Kathy chats with Susan B. Anderson, KAL continues, more yarn picks and more on the May sale.
Stop into the store to get your I-91 Shop Hop Passport and Tote.
Guest: Cathy Carron, author of Cowl Girls. Kathy and Cathy chat about the book and all of the great projects in the book. They also chat about how Cathy got started and how she ended up where she is now.
KAL with LA
When starting the hood, the pattern has you place the held stitches from front and back onto needles and then knit the first row with some increases. I found there to be too big of a gap between the front and back stitches so I followed a suggestion from Connie. What I did instead was to pick up some extra stitches – the number will vary depending on what size you are knitting – between the front neck sts and the back neck sts. You want enough to close the gap but not too many. Then in the next couple rows work some decreases to get rid of the extra stitches.
Make sure you are maintaining the ribbing pattern. And be sure to place a marker to mark the center of the hood.
On the 5th row you will begin the hood increases at the center marker. You are working a double increase at this point. I kept it simple and worked ‘knit into front and back of stitch’ on the next two stitches on either side of the marker. You want to maintain your ribbing pattern as you add stitches – after you have added 4 purls, the next added stitch will be a knit.
Work until the hood is 11 ¾”, ending with a wrong side row. Then you will split the left and right sides of the hood, work some short rows to shape it and finish it by doing a 3-needle bind off.
That’s it! You’re done (well, don’t forget to weave in the ends). I blocked the sweater one more time so the sleeves and hood would get their turn at being blocked and the sweater would look whole.
Work both fronts – remember to switch back to small needles for the woven section. Work as for back – woven section with armhole decreases, ribbed section and shoulder short rows.
Block your sweater. You can either steam it or – as I did- give it a soak with Eucalan and let it dry on a blocking board.
Do a three-needle bind off to seam shoulders together. With right sides together, hold 2 needles – one with back shoulder and one with front shoulder. With a third needle insert tip into first st on front needle and then first st on back needle and knit the two sts together. Work across the row this way, knitting sts from front and back needles together, binding off as you go. A good video of this is at: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/casting-of
Check the length on the schematic to make sure it is right for you. Top-down sleeves are much simpler to adjust the length on, but you want to check it out ahead of time so you can adjust the rate of decreases if necessary.
Use Connie’s tip and knit into back loops on first row; this will tighten stitches and prevent holes.
Turned hem: The pattern has you knit 6 rows, fold the stitches to the inside and k2tog and bind off. I found it easier to execute by using a small dpn to pick up the sts from the first row. I did this in batches, picking up about 15 sts at a time. This made it more like a traditional three-needle bind off, which somehow made it easier for me to see what I was doing. You will also want to make sure your bind off is somewhat loose, so you can fit your hand through the bound off cuff.
Guest: Gudrun Johnston, The Shetland Trader. Gudrun explains where the name The Shetland Trader comes from and she talks about her beautiful new collection of patterns. She tells us where she got the names of the patterns included in the book.
If you’re local, make sure you stop by on December 2nd to meet Gudrun!
KAL with Leslie Ann: This week LA discusses the woven section. You’ll be knitting with two strands of yarn AND the smaller needle. Work first two rows of woven pattern, work across front, bind off for underarm, and work across then turn to complete the back. Once the woven section is completed, you’ll drop the extra strand and go back to alternating strands if you are doing that.
Shaping the shoulders – work across the neckline stitches then place them on the holder after knitting them. You’ll begin short row shaping after this. Don’t be afraid of this! The instructions are super clear in the pattern.