If you’ve followed along on our podcast, Ready, Set, Knit, you know that we’ve featured many knitalongs and crochetalongs, and now it’s time for another. Instead of featuring it on the podcast, we’re going to run this one here on the blog. We hope you’ll join us!
So, what pattern are we doing? Well, when the latest issue of Twist Collective was release, we loved Caeles. This tank is a great choice for spring and summer, and it is sized 29¾” to 57 ¾”! Even better, it is knit in Valley Yarns Goshen, and Goshen happens to be part of our Anniversary Sale. Thanks to the sale price, the yarn cost for the project will be $19.53-$33.48 – a price that’s hard to beat.
I’m a big fan of Goshen. I knit a shrug out of it nearly four years ago and I still wear it, especially in the spring and summer. It’s great over a dress or a tank. I also love the color palette. The modal and silk add a touch of sheen and it is incredibly soft.
You’ll want to choose your size (the pattern recommends negative ease, so slightly smaller than your actual measurement), pick your color, and order the yarn and pattern (pattern is a download from Twist Collective). Now, we need to knit a gauge swatch. The pattern calls for a size 7 needle and 18 stitches and 23 rows for four inches. Make sure you wash and block your swatch before measuring. Mine loosened up a bit, so even though I thought I would have to go up a needle size, once I washed it, my gauge was fine. If you don’t get gauge, change your needle size and try again.
Next week, we’ll talk about casting on and working short rows.
Guest: Dora Ohrenstein, author of Custom Crocheted Sweaters. Kathy and Dora chats with Kathy about crochet and her new book. They also talk about how crochet has evolved. Dora’s book includes a comprehensive teaching section at the beginning. Through research on Ravelry, she discovered that people want to make garments, but they find that they don’t fit. The book answers this fear with information about getting your measurements and modifying the pattern to fit you.
It’s a pretty simple pattern. Kirsten works flat for a couple of rows and then joins, so you can tell whether or not your join is twisted. It’s a great trick to try, and great to use if you’re joining a project with many stitches.
For the main body, you work the Hearts of Oak stitch pattern. Kirsten details the three steps of the increase. Check out the video:
Brenda Dayne is coming to WEBS! Stay tuned for more details.
Guest: Kate Atherley, author of Beyond Knit & Purl. Kate studied mathematics and has always been a knitter. She worked in the tech industry for 15 years and knit throughout. 10 years ago she started teaching knitting. Kate created the book as a follow-up to the questions she receives after teaching someone the basics of knitting.
The book is available online as a digital PDF and also available as a physical copy.
It’s a simple, straight-forward hat. You’ll need just one ball of Valley Yarns Northampton in red. For the cast on, Kirsten recommends knitting the first couple rows of the ribbing flat, and then joining it. This way, it’s easier to join in the round without twisting. Next week, Kirsten will get into the stitch pattern.
Facebook Party will be Friday, February 17th from 3:00pm-4:00pm. Ask us questions and we’ll be online answering your questions.
Guest: Linda Pratt of Westminster fibers talks with Kathy about SMC Yarns. SMC is a shortened version of the Schachenmayr brand. The brand has been given a huge face-lift and rejuvenation. SMC Select is a little higher end, fashion-focused line. Several of the Gedifra yarns have been absorbed into SMC Select.
If you experience any problems with any of the parts and pieces of your Knitter’s Pride needles or hooks, just let us know and we’ll get a replacement right out to you!
We’ve also got a ton of accessories! Sock blockers, cable needles, stitch holders, chart keepers, magnet boards, shawl pins and more!
CAL with Kirsten
After the crochet chain, you’ll work the main body of the cowl. Round 4 and 5 you work into the chain, not the chain space. You should have a loose gauge here, so you shouldn’t have to force the hook.
Learn from us and make sure you check your gauge! A couple double crochets off over four inches makes a huge difference in the finished size. Make sure you’re working nice and loose!
Some tips I found useful: When you’re making the foundation chain, don’t omit the stitch marker at the beginning. It’s very, very useful. Work on a flat surface – it’s a lot easier to see when there’s a twist and to tell up from down
Here are the joining directions in my words: When chain’s the right length, lay it flat, then bring the beginning together with the end that’s on the hook without twisting – the marked stitch is at the bottom (closer to you) and the hook is at the top (further from you) Put one twist in it by bringing the marked stitch up to the hook and work a slip stitch in the marked stitch
Now the top of the foundation is connected, but the bottom is still split. So let’s join that together: Rotate your work on the table 180 degrees, so the marked stitch and the hook are at the bottom and the split ends are at the top.
Work 3 slip sts in the chain above the marked stitch Slip stitch into the base of the last FDC Now you’re ready to go!
Pattern is laid out with the notes and special stitches on the first page, so you have to go to the second page to know exactly how much to chain.
Foundation double crochet! Not as hard as you think it is
– Directions are very clear as to exactly where to put your hook (through the face of the chain and under the nub) Sounds weird, but makes a lot of sense when you’re looking at your chain
– I found an Addi hook to be the most useful, nearly a necessity: the head is pointy and narrow and fits into the chain easier than other hooks.
– Doing the foundation double crochet exactly as directed makes a very clean edge and the resulting chain is really flexible and stretchy
Gauge is given in Foundation Double Crochets, which is very handy. You can check your gauge as you’re starting your project!
Guest: Beth Casey of Lorna’s Laces chats with Kathy about the newest yarn from Lorna’s Laces – Solemate. This is a sockweight yarn that’s a blend of superwash merino, nylon, and Outlast. Outlast is a technological fiber that helps regulate your temperature – cools when it’s too hot and warms when it’s too cool. The yarn has a very high twist, similar to the Shepherd Sock because it’s such a well-wearing, popular yarn. There is some springiness in the new yarn, but it is a little bit smoother because of the content. Beth also talks about the newest colors named after iconic Chicago landmarks.
We’re live from our Tent Sale this week!
This year, we have deals on bagged yarns, but also some great Grab Bags from Berroco, Tahki, and Plymouth. These are only available during the Tent Sale at the store, so if you can make it down, you’ll want to check out these great yarns!
Spinning supplies and Blue Moon Fiber Arts are 20% off this weekend only! (In-store only!)
Keep in mind that if you’re here, there will be lines. They will move, but there will be waits.
Josephine KAL with Kirsten
With the Josephine Cardigan, you can easily modify the sleeve length. It is possible to make the body longer as well, you’ll have to make the center back cable longer.
To adjust the body width, knit a few more rows on the width of the body after you pick up.
If you’re not sure what size to make, take a sweater from home you love, and compare the measurements of that one to the schematic of your project.
Send us a picture of your finished project! firstname.lastname@example.org
Fleece Market – The first Fleece Market was at 109 Main Street in Amherst in the parking lot in the back.
Guest: Vicki Stiefel, co-author of 10 Secrets of the Laidback Knitter. She wrote this book with Lisa Souza and the whole premise is to help knitters experience more joy from their knitting. The authors wanted this book to be inclusive to everyone. Make sure you check it out!
Last show we talked about making the center back cable panel, and now that that’s done, we’re ready to pick up stitches!
Now, technically, the cable could be oriented either with the cast on edge at the neck or at the bottom hem. But I put it at the top neck so it’ll look more like the cables you’re about to do from the shoulders down. This is why you’re doing the right half of the body even though it says you’re picking up on the left edge of the cable panel. By “left edge” I mean the edge that’s at the end of a RS row. After working your last row, your yarn and needles should be poised to start working here, anyway.
When I’m picking up stitches in a bulky yarn like this, I like to go into the edge stitch instead of beyond it so you don’t have a thick seam on the WS. But you can do it whichever way you’re most comfortable. You have to pick up 50 sts in 86 rows here, which is somewhere close to 3 sts for every 4 rows, not exact, but you don’t want to have to cram sts in at the very ends, and I find that the cables can compact the rows a little more than Stockinette.
So, to pick up stitches, hold the cable panel firmly in your left hand, and with your right-hand needle, go into the selvedge stitch, from front to back, wrap your yarn like for a normal knit stitch, and draw the loop through the fabric. You’re essentially treating the edge of your cable panel like it’s a row of stitches on a needle. And if you’re still having trouble, definitely google it, there are lots of videos for you to be able to see it.
Once you’re done picking up those 50 sts, you’re going to cast on 44. How do you do that? Well, there are a few different methods you can use here, but the important thing is to use a cast on that only uses one strand of yarn, not 2 like the long-tail method. I recommend using the backwards loop cast on here, sometimes called an “e wrap” because it looks like a lower case letter ‘e’. I recommend it because it’s easy, it’s somewhat stable, it’s easy to pick up from, which you’ll be doing later, and if you look closely at your long-tail cast on, you’ll see that it’s actually the same as a backwards loop cast on with one row of knitting already built into it. So there’s some symmetry if you use it here.
Art & Barbara purchased a large mill end lot of 1300 YPP Rayon Chenille. They then had it dyed and it became one of the first of the WEBS yarns. It was the first time they had repeatable colorways. They were also able to take advantage of mills in the US, which unfortunately, don’t exist anymore.
Barbara & Art used to drive around looking for mills and finding them by looking for water towers. Art made lots of contacts, and now that everything is more precise with computers, mill ends don’t really exist.
Next week – What happens when Art retires his “regular” job.
Also next week, we’ll be LIVE at our Tent Sale, so local customers can catch us on WHMP. The podcast version will go up later than usual.
Alright, so we’ve got our Northampton Bulky, we’ve swatched and we’ve found the needle size we need in order to get 3 sts to the inch in St st.
Now it’s time to cast on that center back cable panel. Long tail cast on is recommended here because it gives a nice sturdy edge that’s easy to work with. Since you’re at the back neck here, the ribbing will eventually be picked up from the bottom of this cast on edge, which long-tail cast on can handle well if it’s made somewhat loosely. If you love provisional cast-on methods, you can do it here, but keep in mind that you’ll be working some cables as early as Row 2, so you might want to use a method that will give you a row or two of waste knitting to work with, otherwise the cables can distort the cast on edge and make it hard to see which stitches come first.
To work the cable, you’ll have to do a little bit of page flipping at first. The cable panel itself is only 24 sts wide, but you’re casting on 26. That’s because you have a one stitch at the left and right edges worked in garter stitch, which are the edges you’ll be picking up the left and right backs from later. But the other cables at the shoulders don’t need those selvedge edges, which is why they’re not in the chart. So, I show you how Rows 1 and 2 are worked to establish that it’s garter stitch, and you can take it from there, repeating Rows 1-24 of the cable chart, or the written cable directions, your pick, tacking on a little “k1″ at the beg and end of each row.
Just a note about the cable abbreviations: I had to do a bit of translation between the chart’s legend and the abbreviations used in the written pattern. The reason is because my charting software has kind of long, clunky names for cables (probably because it has to have a unique name for so many of them) and they don’t fit very well into written directions and they can be a little hard to read. But since we’re only working with a couple different cables here in this pattern, we can give them more readable, general abbreviations in the written directions. So at the top of page 2, I list what abbreviation means what.
So, we’ll be repeating these 24 rows a total of 3 times, using some of the cable techniques we talked about earlier. And if you’re new to cable charts, not sure if you get them yet, I recommend working from the written version, then comparing each row you’ve worked to the chart, to get a better sense of how it works.
Next show we’ll be talking about picking up the stitches for the sides of the cardigan, casting on in the middle of a project, and just how those sleeves come to be. So get cabling and happy knitting!