Your hats are almost done! Let’s add those finishing touches that really pull it together. First you’ll want to weave in your ends.
Will you add any additional surface work before you block? Duplicate Stitch or Embroidery? Here’s a quick tutorial for duplicate stitch, which is a great way to add an extra little pop of color!
Now it’s time to block your hat to settle all those stitches. Remember how you blocked your swatch, that’s how you’ll block the hat! If you don’t have a hat form to block your hat with you can use a bowl propped over a vase or tall glass.
Add a pom pom or tassel or braids! We had some fun making pom pom!
For those of you that asked, here’s how we made our CYOA Hats!
I knit my first hat with my favorite Valley Yarn, Northfield, in the Wine colorway. I used the cable pattern and cable decreases,and added a 1 1/2″ pom pom.
Beth also used the cable pattern, but changed the smaller side cables by only repeating the first cable crosses, and broke it up with panels of moss stitch, in the Forest color of our Valley Superwash DK. She also used a twisted ribbing at the brim by knitting her knit stitches through the back loop.
I wanted my second hat to be simpler so I opted for seed stitch with a garter stitch border and the 4 corners decreases. And I knit it all in the rich Red Wine Heather color of Colrain.
Mary chose the Fair Isle pattern for her hat and opted for 3 colors in Valley Yarns Goshen, Navy, Linen and Persimmon. Using the 2-color ast on really ties it all together!
Dena also used the Fair Isle pattern but chose two colors, Silver and Eggplant, of Brimfield. She also chose to knit a short i-cord at the top of the hat arther than cinching the top closed right away, this gives the hat a whimsical little stem!
For my last hat I just wanted to have some fun! I used Stockbridge in Blue Mist, Grey and Gold, in stripes where each color was a different stitch. If you love Stockbridge you should stock up now since it’s discontinued!
Be sure to post your pics to Twitter, Facebook and Instagram and tag it with #chooseyourownadventure #WEBSKAL #Myhatadventure We’d love to see your finished hats!
Let’s turn this tube into a hat! It’s time for some crown decreases
If you’re working magic loop or on two circular needles you can continue along but if you’ve been working with one 16″ needle you’ll want to transition to double pointed needles at this point.
1 – Option 1: Spiral Decreases
Place a stitch marker after every 10th sts, use a contrasting color marker to identify the beginning of the round. Work in rounds as follows:
Rnd 1: *K to 2 sts before marker, k2tog: rep from * around. (9 (10, 11, 12) sts decreased.)
Rnd 2: Knit.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until 18(20, 22, 24) sts remain.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail. Thread yarn through all remaining stitches and pull snugly. Sew in all ends and block to settle stitches.
A quick reminder of how to make an ssk
3 – Cable pattern decreases
18 and 22” sizes only, an 18st repeat
Rnd 1: *P1, c1L, c1R, p1, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p1, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 2: *P1, k4, p1, k4, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 3: *P1, c1L, c1R, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 4: *P1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 5: *P1, c1L, c1R, (p2tog)twice, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 6: *P1, k4, p2, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 7: *P1, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 8: *P1, k3, p2, k3, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 9: *P1, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 10: *P1, k2, p2, k2, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 11: *P1, ssk, p2, k2tog, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 12: *P1, k1, p2, k1, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 13: *P1, (p2tog)twice, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 14: P all sts
Rnd 15: *P2tog; rep from * around
Repeat Rnds 15 and 16 once more.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail. Thread yarn through all remaining stitches and pull snugly. Sew in all ends and block to settle stitches.
20 and 24” sizes only, a 20 st repeat
Rnd 1: *P1, k1tbl, p1, c1L, c1R, p1, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, p1, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 2: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k4, p1, k4, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 3: *P1, k1tbl, p1, c1L, c1R, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 4: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 5: *P1, k1tbl, p1, c1L, c1R, (p2tog)twice, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 6: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k4, p2, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 7: *P1, k1tbl, p1, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 8: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k3, p2, k3, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 9: *P1, k1tbl, p1, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 10: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 11: *P1, k1tbl, p1, ssk, p2, k2tog, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 12: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 13: *P1, k1tbl, p1, (p2tog)twice, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 14: *P1, k1tbl, p4; rep from * around
Rnd 15: *P1, k1tbl, (p2tog)twice; rep from * around
Rnd 16: *P1, k1tbl, p2; rep from * around
Rnd 17: *P2tog; rep from * around
Rnd 18: P all sts
Repeat Rnd 17 once more.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail. Thread yarn through all remaining stitches and pull snugly. Sew in all ends and block to settle stitches.
If you’ve never done a p2tog before, here’s how!
5 – Alternate Crown: No shaping!
Continue working your hat in pattern with NO decreases until the hat is 1 inch longer than your desired depth from the cast-on edge. Fold the hat flat and use the 3 needle bind off or kitchener stitch to close the top of the hat with a flat seam.
Here’s your chance to try a 3-needle bind off
And, it never hurts to have a visual reminder of kitchener stitch!
Next week we’ll do a little finishing work, and show you our fully finished hats as well as which options were used for each. How’s your hat looking?
Be sure to post your pics to Twitter, Facebook and Instagram and tag it with #chooseyourownadventure #WEBSKAL #Myhatadventure #websyarn
It’s time to get to the fun part, the body of the hat! Feel free to add stripes in multiple colors, or stitches, for these first 3 options.
1 – Stockinette
Rnd1: K all sts
Repeat Rnd 1
Continue in stockinette until the hat is 2 inches LESS than your desired depth from the cast-on edge
2 – Seed Stitch
Rnd 1: *K1, P1; rep from * around
Rnd 2: * P1, k1; rep from * around
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until the hat is 2 inches LESS than your desired depth from the cast-on edge
3 – Moss Stitch
Rnds 1 and 2: *K2, P2; rep from * around
Rnds 3 and 4: * P2, K2; rep from * around
Repeat Rnds 1 through 4 until the hat is 2 inches than your desired depth from the cast-on edge edge
You can add stripes into any one of these stitch patterns or combine these stitch pattern as their own stripes as shown above! And just to gussy things up a bit, here’s a great way to avoid that unsightly jog that happens with stripes in the round!
Please note: the Cable and Fair Isle motifs work with an 18 st or 20st repeat, depending on size.
4 – Cables
18 and 22” sizes only, an 18 st repeat
Rnd 1: *P1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 2: *P1, c1L(left twist), c1R(right twist), p1, k6, p1, c1L, c1R, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 1
Rnd 4: *P1, c1R, c1L, p1, k2, sl 2 purlwise, k2, p1, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 5: *P1, k4, p1, 1/2Rc(c1 over 2 right), 1/2Lc(c1 over 2 left), p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnds 6-9: Repeat Rnds 4 and 5 twice more
Rnd 10: *P1, c1L, c1R, p1, k6, p1, c1L, c1R, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 11: *P1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 12: *P1, c1R, c1L, p1, k6, p1, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
20 and 24” sizes only, a 20 st repeat
Rnd 1: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 2: *P1, k1tbl, p1, c1L(left twist), c1R(right twist), p1, k6, p1, c1L, c1R, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 5: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k4, p1,1/2Rc(c1 over 2 right), 1/2Lc(c1 over 2 left), p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnds 6-9: Repeat Rnds 4 and 5 twice more
Rnd 10: *P1, k1tbl, p1, c1L, c1R, p1, k6, p1, c1L, c1R, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 11: *P1, k1tbl, p1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1; rep from * around
Rnd 12: *P1, k1tbl, p1, c1R, c1L, p1, k6, p1, c1R, c1L, p1; rep from * around
For all sizes
Repeat Rnds 1-12 until the hat is 2 inches LESS than your desired depth from the cast-on edge,
ending after Rnd 1 or Rnd 9, before beginning Crown decreases.
Abbreviations:
c1L – left twist: sl next st to cn and hold to front of work, k1, k1 from cn
c1R – right twist: sl next st to cn and hold to back of work, k1, k1 from cn
1/2Rc – c1 over 2 right: sl next 2 sts to cn and hold to back of work, k1, k2 from cn
1/2Lc – c1 over 2 left: sl next st to cn and hold to front of work, k2, k1 from cn
tbl – through the back loop; work designated stitch through the back loop of the stitch on the needle
Here’s a quick refresher on basic cabling.
And a tutorial for cabling without a needle!
5 – Fair Isle
Work Rounds 1-20 of the chart then Rounds 1-4 Only, or until the hat is 2 inches LESS than your desired depth from the cast-on edge before beginning crown decreases.
18 and 22” sizes only, an 18st repeat
20 and 24” sizes only, a 20 st repeat
Follow the chart as indicated
Continue in colorwork pattern until the hat is 2 inches LESS than your desired depth from the cast-on edge. Next week we’ll start the crown decreases.
Here’s a quick tutorial on basic colorwork.
Be sure to post your pics to Twitter, Facebook and Instagram and tag it with #chooseyourownadventure #WEBSKAL #Myhatadventure #CYOAKAL
Measure the circumference of yours, or the wearer’s, head, this is the size you’ll make. Measure all the way around your head, just at the tips of your ears. If you measure 21” you can go down a size for a slightly more snug fit, or up a size for a more loosely fitting hat.
Now measure from the bottom of the ear to the top of the head. This is your desired depth, this number will be important next week!
Sizes to make – 18(20, 22, 24)” around
Choose a Cast-on method:
Cast on 90(100, 108, 120)sts using one of these methods.
1 – Classic long-tail – here’s a quick refresher!
2 – Two-color long-tail – a twist on the classic!
3 – Old Norwegian – A great alternative!
And now that you’ve cast on, and you’re ready to knit, you might be nervous about joining to work in the round, but don’t be! Here’s a quick tutorial!
Now choose a brim style!
1 – Classic Ribbing 1×1
Work [k1, p1] rib for 2 inches, or desired length.
2 – Corrugated Ribbing – in 2 colors
Work [k1 in color A, p1 in color B] corrugated rib for 2 inches, or desired length.
3 – Folded Brim
Knit in stockinette stitch for 2 inches, purl one round, knit in stockinette for 2 inches more. Now fold the brim along that purl ridge and seam your cast on edge to the inside of the hat using the purl ridges just below your needle.
4 – Garter Brim
Knit in alternate rounds of knit and purl for 2 inches, or desired length. *Alternately – you could knit rows for 2 inches and join to work in the round AFTER the brim. You’ll need to seam the edges closed.
And here’s a quick tutorial for working the garter edge flat before joining in the round!
Next week you get to choose the stitch pattern for the body of your hat. Be sure to post your pics to Twitter, Facebook and Instagram and tag it with #chooseyourownadventure #WEBSKAL #Myhatadventure #CYOAKAL
Choose your favorite worsted or DK weight yarn from Valley Yarns and swatch on different needles until you’ve got 5 sts per inch. I swatched 4 different Valley Yarns (Northfield, Sunderland, Colrain and Valley Superwash) and found that I got 5 sts per inch on a US size 7/4.5mm needle, so I would recommend that you start there.
Because this hat is worked in the round you’ll want to swatch in the same manner!
Cast 30 sts onto your circular needles, or one dpn.
*Slide your stitches to the right-hand side of the needle.
Gently bring your working yarn across the back of the work, making sure to leave plenty of slack, and knit the next row of stitches.
Repeat from *
Continue in this manner till the swatch measures 4” from the cast on edge.
Loosely cast off and block your swatch! Here’s a quick tutorial on swatching with this method.
Time to Block!
Not sure about blocking? Take a look at the care instructions on your ballband.
Machine Wash Regular? – Toss that swatch in the machine!
Hand Wash? – Give it a gentle soak and swish in Eucalan, then pin it to dry without too much tension on the stitches.
Dry Clean? – Steam is your friend, pin your swatch out and steam away.
The key with blocking and washing your swatch is to treat it the EXACT SAME way you plan to treat your finished knit.
Now to check your gauge!
Now that you’ve blocked you can measure for gauge.
DO NOT MEASURE FOR GAUGE UNTIL AFTER YOUR SWATCH HAS BEEN BLOCKED AND DRIED! Seriously, please.
Did you measure 5 sts per inch? Yes – then please proceed! (Make sure your swatch is no longer pinned in place when you measure!)
No – Then you’ll need to re-swatch
If you got more than 5 sts per inch you need a bigger needle. Try swatching on a US 8.
If you got less than 5 sts per inch you need a smaller needle. Try swatching on a US 6.
Keep swatching until you get to 5 sts per inch!
You may need to make several swatches to get the right gauge. It’s totally worth it because you’ll end up with a hat that FITS! And don’t worry about row gauge, you’ll be working the hat length to measurements.
This is a good time to mention that I like to swatch with 3 different needles. Start with the size smaller than you think you’ll need, the size you’re pretty sure you’ll get gauge with, and the next size bigger and purl a row of stitches between each section for a visual break. This way if your gauge is off by just a touch you’re only swatching and blocking once. I know it may seem silly to make a swatch that’s three times as big as you need but if you have to make a swatch anyway, and you really do (every time!), why not make one that works for you.
Next week we cast on our hats! Here’s a sneak peek of some of the CYOA Hats that our staff knit up!
Be sure to post your pics to Twitter, Facebook and Instagram and tag it with #chooseyourownadventure #WEBSKAL #Myhatadventure #CYOAKAL
